Building Chronology
The house has had several changes and additions throughout its history, some used refined craft skills, while others used recycled building materials and unrefined craft. The building chronology is based on observations of the construction technology and techniques, although these observations should be confirmed using additional research materials, for instance, historical tax assessments and plat & plot maps at the local town hall.
The original building seems to have been built around 1780 or so, with hand-hewn timbers, dressed timbers and cut lumber. The main timbers are chestnut. The planks for walls and floor are water powered gang sawn chestnut. Wrought nails were used throughout the visible structure.
The south addition was built around 1820, but it seems to have been either moved or re-erected around 1850 to connect with the main house. This addition has hewn chestnut main timbers, and water powered gang sawn floor joists, as well as various planks. This addition also had wrought head nails. We believe it may have been moved since the frame seemed contemporary with the main house, but construction techniques differ from the main house. These differences were exemplified by the type of hewing, as well as more technologically advanced sawn floor joists. It is evident that the basement of this addition was used as a summer kitchen. Finally the door and window trim seemed to be more of a later period, about 1850.
The shed kitchen off the west side of the south addition was built relatively soon after the original construction. The foundation was not integrated with the other, nor was it a full basement. This may have been a small shed for storage that was later modified into a kitchen.
The majority of the changes seem to have happened around 1850. This work was clearly extensive and done professionally; we surmise that the building was gutted at this time, except for a few closets and walls on the second floor. There is evidence that the structure once had a central chimney, it has since been removed. The rear addition used some recycled timbers; the installation of sawn tongue and groove flooring is indicative of a remodel and the timber recycling. The central chimney was replaced with a smaller single flue chimney, and new timers were retrofitted into the frame to replace the void where the chimney was. This chimney had a marble mantle installed in the main parlor, while a possible non-functional mantle was put in the bedroom. Another chimney was installed in the rear addition, perhaps utilizing a cast iron cooking stove and small fireplace. The east porch was built, exterior doors and surrounds installed and the windows were replaced. Most of the door casings were replaced to match the gothic style, as were the 4 panel doors. Most of the second floor doors remained hand planed board and batten doors for the main house, while the south addition had the same 4 panel doors. Each of the door hinges was a pin or a butt hinge, typical of the 1850Õs.
The last addition seems to be between 1870 and 1900 on the west side of the house, where the construction used pretty much anything around. The joists were half logs, and there was just a small foundation and not a full basement. Other improvements continued through the 1900Õs, with the kitchen installed somewhere around the 1950Õs, and vinyl siding was installed, but little else changed.
Condition Assessment
Basement, Foundation and Chimneys
The basement suffers from several problems resulting from poor construction techniques, water, moisture and insect infestation. The most apparent problem is the amount of water coming into and remaining in the basement. The basement floor is a mix of dirt, stone and concrete. On the west side of the main house, there are several inches of standing water. On the east side of the south addition, there is a spring coming up through the bottom of the foundation. Attempts to plug up the spring have apparently failed. Although these problems are seasonal, they have affected the overall health of the frame, foundation and potentially the houseÕs occupants.
The foundation is made of field stone, with some larger stones either left in place from where they were found, or dropped to the base. The stones were laid in a lime based mortar. As the building changed so did the foundation. For some reason there was an additional layer of foundation walls built on the north side, making the wall about 3 to 4 feet thick. The foundation has had several holes punched through it for water lines, windows, etc. and also requires a bit of repointing.
The observations were:
As mentioned previously, the frame has been modified considerably since it was built. The center of the main house was reconfigured when the central chimney was removed. Main timbers were cut into for newer members, although these junctions were not properly supported, causing them to sag and crack. Also, the considerable amount of moisture has introduced infestation and brown rot throughout the frame, requiring several repairs. Over time, there have been 23 posts installed of various species, including locust, red cedar and chestnut, to help support these failing areas. The frame for the south addition seems to be in good shape.
The upper frame is in good shape. The only area that has sagged is in the north bedroom, above the rotted sill in the basement. It seems that the small shed roof covering the basement entry has been leaking, causing the planks and sill to sag. The roof rafters seem to be in good shape.
The observations are as follows:
The roof is also aged, but not yet failing. As mentioned previously, the chimneys are sealed with tar.
Short observation of the mechanicals include:
The treatment recommendations are presented in a bullet format. A more detailed scope should be made prior to requests for bids, defining the amount of work expected. The corresponding budgets may be refined once the appropriate subcontractors are identified and provide the final bid for work. The general approach and order of the repairs are:
Asbestos Abatement: ` $ 5,000.00
Framing Repairs and Posts: $15,000.00
Drainage System: $
6, 500.00
Masonry Repairs: $ 8,500.00
Concrete Floor: $10,000.00
Electrical: $ 5,500.00
Total Budget of Phase 1:` $55,000.00
1. Replace about 20 squares of roof with new asphalt, excluding the basement entry
2. Install drip edges
3. Replace necessary facias
4. Install new gutters and downspouts
5. Install dry wells or provide adequate drainage for runoff
6. Replace chimney flashing
Phase 2 Budget:
Phase 3 Budget:
Total Budget Phase 3: $58,000.00
Building Chronology
The outbuilding seems to have been built during the renovations to the main house in 1850. There were some additions to it, with the first south addition around 1890 or so, and the west garage built around 1940. There has been some changes and maintenance over the years, however it has been pretty much neglected for the past 50 years.
Foundation and Chimney
The original outbuilding was built on grade, with a small stone footing under the sills. The floor was laid right on the dirt, and has subsequently rotted. The 1890 addition was built on a foundation above grade, since the grade drops down from north to south. The west garage was built off a slab. The condition of the original and 1890 addition foundation was fair, although some could not be assessed since it was under the grade. The single flue chimney is in the original building, and has suffered from some water damage, because the flashing was replaced with tar.
The frame of the original building was constructed using the post and beam system and plank walls. There are no cross braces for the frame because it is plank construction. The lath was nailed with cut machined heads nails, as was all of the trim, suggesting the 1850 date. Since it was built on grade, the original structure has suffered from considerable water and infestation damage. All eight posts are rotted, as are all of the sills, which have caused the building to sag in places. Additional planking and other framing members are also questionable, yet further exposure of the frame will ultimately determine the extent of damage.
The other additions to the building require general maintenance, including finishes and drainage that will help protect the frame from further deterioration.
Exterior and Roof
The siding and roof suffer from lack of maintenance. The framing damage has caused the building to sag and doors become inoperable. The lack of gutters and drainage has contributed to the decay and infestation. The roof and chimney flashing is failing, also contributing to the buildingÕs degradation.
Mechanicals
The only mechanicals visible for the building are electrical. Some of which is inoperative and antiquated.
Treatment Recommendations
The first approach to the building should be to weigh the original buildingÕs value as a functional asset to its historical contribution to the property. This judgment may be in conflict, since recovering the function of the space may not be in proportion to the investment. Yet when the contribution of the building is put in balance to the sites history, it becomes invaluable. So, once you determine its functional and intrinsic value, these are some treatments and budgets to consider:
Structural and Siding Repairs
á Brace original building and raise to appropriate height
á Remove rotted material, including sills, posts, planks and plaster walls for first floor
á Complete necessary foundation repairs
á Install new sill and posts with proper joinery
á Install new planking
á Reinstall original siding and trim, piecing in new where necessary
á Rehang door, installing new frame and threshold
Total Structural
and Siding Repairs: $14,000.00
Roof, Flashing and Gutters
á Remove roof to original building
á Reflash chimney
á Install new gutters and downspouts
á Install new asphalt roof, approximately 3 squares
á Install drip edges
Total Roof,
Flashing and Gutters: $ 3,500.00
Building Chronology
The original house appears to be a rectangular Cape; with the east side offset square room, built around 1800 or so. This configuration may have been for some earlier side room function, rather than a deliberate design feature. The Cape design seems to be a fairly typical central chimney, with two flanking rooms to the east and the west, and two rooms to the north. Yet the east side addition does seem contemporary, since the foundation construction is consistent throughout, despite the floor levels of the basement being different. The main house was one and a half stories, while the east addition was most likely only one floor. There is evidence of accordion lath in the south attic closet, re-emphasizing the 1800 construction period. There are also original plank frame 6 over 6 (amount of glass for each sash) windows on the south elevation.
The addition to the north was added about 1850 or so, finished with a more Gothic style. These rooms were designed to function as additional living space and a kitchen on the first floor, and a bedroom on the second. The evidence of this addition is apparent viewing the construction techniques of the basement frame, as well as an obvious break in the foundation. The top plate was extended up, and new roof rafters were installed. The exterior walls were perhaps shingled at this time, and some of the windows were modernized. The second floor was gutted, except for the small south closet and new door trim was installed, while the original doors were reused. The 2nd floor rooms were replastered, as were all of the first floor addition rooms. The most significant change to the main house was removal of the central chimney stack. Instead, they installed two single flue chimneys, flanking the new stairway that went south to north, instead of the original stair that hugged the central chimney, running east and west.
Foundation and Chimneys
The foundation of the main Cape was impressive. Rarely is a rural foundation over twelve feet high, since it required so much physical labor to dig out and construct. The workmanship was equally impressive, with little to no repairs necessary. Unfortunately, the 1850 addition was not built with as much skill. There is evidence of a now semi-demolished bee hive oven in the basement, with a tossed style of stones that make up the surrounding walls. These areas behind the old oven require reconstruction. Also, there seems to be old root damage on the North East corner of the addition to the main house that has been exacerbated by water infiltration from the downspout.
The flashing for the main house chimneys has been replaced with tar, thus causing considerable damage to the structure and surrounding sheathing. These chimneys were also built to mimic the original, yet they join over the stairway by way of a poorly constructed corbelled arch. This arch did not rely on the principles of sound construction, but rather on the temporary strength of the mortar and the boards that were installed during their construction. They are in need of reconstruction. The addition chimney seems to have been rebuilt within the past 30 years, and seems to be in good condition.
As with the foundation, the original 1800 timber framing was exceptional. There was only on girt or beam that has failed and cracked, thus requiring either replacement or sistering. The area where the floor was patched in from the loss of the central chimney has some floating joists. There is also some white fungus throughout, caused by excessive moisture in the basement. All of the red cedar posts in the main house are in sound condition. The floor in the front hall seems soft and should be reinforced. The roof framing and other parts of the structure seem to be in good shape.
The side addition does have some basement framing damage, including 3 joist ends that have rotted out.
Exterior and Roof
The exterior is in relatively good shape, with the exception of the gutters, drainage and roof. All of the siding, trim and doors are in good, working condition.
The roof and chimney flashing should all be replaced. The wood gutters need some repairs and replacement, including: releading the seams and corners; and replacing about 10 feet of gutter in the north east corner of the main house to the addition. The drainage pitch of the downspouts should also be addressed, since some are draining into the basement. This is particularly important in the same North East corner.
The step flashing for the south front porch should be replaced, requiring the clapboards to be partially removed. The same is true for the main house dormer.
Mechanicals
The mechanicals were not assessed for this building.
Treatment Recommendations
The intent for this building is to stabilize the frame, prevent water infiltration and make it secure. With this in mind, we recommend the following treatments:
Masonry
á Stabilize and repair north east corner
á Stabilize and repair north addition corner
á Rebuild flanking central chimneys to be two separate chimneys and reflash
Total Masonry
Repairs: $9,500.00
Structural Repairs
á Install joist hangers to members around the basement stairs.
á Repair cracked girt in main house
á Replace 3 rotted joists
Total Structural
Repairs: $4,500.00
Roof, Flashing and Gutters
á Remove roof shingles
á Repair sheathing where necessary
á Install step flashing and cover flashing to chimney
á Install new flashing to sidewalls of dormer and porch
á Reinstall clapboards
á Repair gutters
á Install drip edges
á Install new asphalt roof, approximately 18 squares
á Install a dry well in north east corner for gutter drainage
á Install new downspouts
Total Roof,
Flashing and Gutters: $ 9,500.00
If you have any comments or additional questions, please fell to contact us.